Rainbow Hot Springs — sometimes called Wolf Creek Hot Springs — is a wild, primitive soak hidden deep in the Weminuche Wilderness of southern Colorado, north of Pagosa Springs. There are no buildings, no roads, and no crowds here: just a pair of rock-rimmed pools perched on the bank of the rushing San Juan River, reachable only on foot. For those who hike in, the reward is one of the most beautiful and remote backcountry soaks in the state.

Getting there is a genuine adventure. From the West Fork Trailhead (off US 160 near Wolf Creek Pass), the West Fork Trail follows the river roughly 4 to 5 miles to the springs, climbing about 1,000 feet along the way — a challenging half-day round trip of around 10 miles. The path is clear at first but can get faint near the end, so keep an eye out for the short spur down to the pools.

The springs themselves are simple and lovely: two soaking pools built up by previous visitors right beside the San Juan, with the larger lower pool averaging a pleasant temperature around the mid-90s Fahrenheit. Soaking in the warm water with cold mountain river rushing past and wilderness peaks all around is an experience that's hard to top.

Come prepared for true wilderness travel: this is high country with no services, so carry plenty of water and a way to treat more, bring a map and navigation, pack out absolutely everything, and be bear aware. Mid-summer through early fall is the window, once the snow has melted and the river has dropped; in spring the trail can be buried and the crossings dangerous. Make it a long day hike or backpack in and stay the night — either way, Rainbow Hot Springs rewards the effort like few places can.