Trail Creek Crags
Ketchum
Rock Climb
Trail Creek is the closest outdoor rock climbing to Ketchum and Sun Valley. A handful of small crags sit right beside Trail Creek Road, the dirt road that climbs northeast from Sun Valley over Trail Creek Summit toward the Big Lost River valley. The main walls are about 11 miles by road from downtown Ketchum, roughly a 25 minute drive, at around 7,500 feet. The land is part of the Sawtooth National Forest, and there is no fee to climb.
Mountain Project splits the area into four sectors, all within a few hundred feet of each other. Muscle Beach is a steep face above a tilted slab. It has nine routes from 5.10c to 5.13c, most of them bolted and many put up by Tony Yaniro in the early days of American sport climbing. Some holds on these routes were drilled or enhanced, so expect a mix of natural and manufactured climbing. The Red Arete sector is the right half of the same crag and has the widest spread of grades: eight climbs from a 5.5 up to the 5.12 arete the sector is named for. Five are bolted, one goes on gear, and the two easiest can be top-roped. The Roadside Crag is the small outcrop on the downhill side of the road next to the parking pullout. It stands only about 10 feet above the road but drops much farther on the far side, and has top-rope bolts on top and at least one bolted line. You reach its base by rappelling or by a loose scramble. Angry Youth Crag, also called the Lower Crag or Girlfriend Crag, sits a short way down the road from the main walls and has five bolted sport routes from 5.9 to 5.11a, some of which can be top-roped.
Sawtooth Mountain Guides also describes a newer wall called SPF 40 with easy to moderate routes. Counting all the sectors, there are a couple dozen routes. It is mostly sport and top-rope climbing, with a small amount of trad. The printed reference for the area is Dave Bingham's guidebook Idaho Underground.
The rock is sedimentary. Geologic maps put this part of the canyon in the Paleozoic Trail Creek and Phi Kappa formations, a mix of quartzite, siltstone, argillite and limestone. Helmets are a good idea, both for loose rock at the top of the walls and for the steep slopes below them.
Parking is limited. Muscle Beach and Red Arete sit directly above a one-car pullout next to the small roadside outcrop, which you can recognize by the bolts on top of it. If that spot is taken, drive back down a few hundred feet to the pullout in a stand of trees. That lower pullout is also the parking for Angry Youth Crag, which is about a five minute walk up a steep, loose trail. Keep cars fully off the road, which is narrow with steep drop-offs.
The season is short and set by the road. Trail Creek Road over the summit is not maintained for winter travel. It closes each year once snow makes it impassable and reopens in spring after it is plowed and cleared. In 2022 it reopened on May 17. The road above the crags is rough gravel with steep drop-offs and occasional rockslides and washouts, and heavy vehicles and trailers are not allowed over the pass. At this elevation summer mornings and evenings are cool, and the walls are a good escape when the valley floor is hot.
There are no toilets, water or trash cans at the crags. Pack out everything, including tape and food scraps, and use the existing trails instead of cutting new lines up the slope. No seasonal wildlife closures are listed for these walls. For current conditions and any closures, contact the Sawtooth National Forest's Ketchum Ranger District before you go.
More Information
Climbing in Angry Youth Crag, Central Idaho
Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers.
https://www.mountainproject.com/area/118792556/angry-youth-cragClimbing in Roadside Crag, Central Idaho
Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers.
https://www.mountainproject.com/area/118792673/roadside-cragNew Climbing at Trail Creek |Ā Sawtooth Mountain Guides
Sawtooth Mountain Guides specializes in guided climbing, hiking, backcountry skiing, avalanche education, ski mountaineering, family programs, and custom corporate trips in the Sawtooths and surrounding mountains near Stanley and Sun Valley, Idaho.
https://sawtoothguides.com/2012/06/25/new-climbing-at-trail-creek/Rock Climbing in Muscle Beach, Central Idaho
Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers.
https://www.mountainproject.com/area/118792601/muscle-beachRock Climbing in Red Arete, Central Idaho
Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers.
https://www.mountainproject.com/area/118792631/red-areteRock Climbing in Trail Creek - Sun Valley, Idaho, Central Idaho
Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers.
https://www.mountainproject.com/area/107222138/trail-creek-sun-valley-idahoTrail Creek & Summit Creek Road - Valley Chamber
If you Google "Trail Creek Road," youāll find several intriguing posts: "Central Idahoās Best Shortcut," and a YouTube video titled, "Our terrifying drive through Trail Creek Road ā Idaho." The trip from Ketchum to Phi Kappa campground is a great backcountry adventure, taking the traveler up a winding dirt and gravel road to Trail Creek
https://valleychamber.org/trail-creek-summit-creek-road/Trail Creek Canyon & Pass, Sun Valley - AllTrips
Trail Creek Road is an 80-mile drive on gravel and paved roads from Sun Valley and into Challis. Only passable during the summer, the road is closed by double-digit feet deep show during the winter. The roadway has steep drop offs and is often plagued with rockslides and/or washed out areas. Overview
https://www.allsunvalley.com/scenic_drives/trail_creek_canyon_pass.phpTrail Creek Summit Road now open | Blaine County | mtexpress.com
Trail Creek Summit Road reopened Tuesday, May 17, following its annual seasonal closure, according to the Blaine County website.
https://www.mtexpress.com/news/blaine_county/trail-creek-summit-road-now-open/article_113af6bc-d7a9-11ec-8ae4-5376b6d14996.htmlDirections
From Ketchum
- Head northeast on Sun Vly Rd E toward N Leadville Ave (2.3 mi)
- Continue onto NF-51/
Trail Creek Rd Continue to follow Trail Creek RdMay be closed at certain times or daysDestination will be on the right(8.5 mi)
Nearby Campsites
Galena Lodge
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Worswick Hot Springs
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Magic Reservoir
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Mormon Reservoir
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Camp, Canoe, Kayak