Logan Canyon is one of the finest and least crowded climbing destinations in the Intermountain West, a deep limestone gorge running east from Logan, Utah, into the Bear River Range about 80 miles north of Salt Lake City. Solid limestone walls rise on both sides of the canyon, lightly wooded slopes frame the views, and the whole place has a relaxed, uncrowded feel that climbers who know it guard closely. It offers sport, trad and bouldering in one canyon, with well over 400 bolted routes spanning from 5.5 to 5.14.

The bouldering is a genuine standout. The canyon's many caves and limestone blocks draw boulderers from across northern Utah, and the rock delivers exactly what limestone should: pumpy overhangs, big jugs and pockets, and steep problems that reward power and body tension. It's the kind of canyon where you can spend a season working a single cave and still not run out.

The roped climbing is equally good. China Wall is the headline crag, with over 40 sport routes running 40 to 100 feet at grades from 5.8 to 5.12. The Witch and The Witches Cauldron sit close together and are usually spoken of as a pair, sharing similar quality limestone. Mile 385 is a superb starter crag with shady routes right off the road at grades from 5.10 to 5.12, ideal for a warm afternoon or a quick session. Access throughout is unusually easy, with many crags within a short walk of US-89.

The canyon itself is a National Scenic Byway, and the drive alone is worth doing, with the road climbing past limestone cliffs toward Bear Lake. That means climbing here mixes easily with everything else the canyon offers, from fishing to hiking to fall colour that turns the whole gorge gold and red in late September.

Limestone in a canyon means shade and sun matter enormously, with some crags baking and others staying cold, and rockfall and loose holds are a real consideration on any limestone, so helmets and a look up before committing are standard practice. Spring through fall is the main season, with summer manageable thanks to the shaded, north-facing crags.

Come with a guidebook or current Mountain Project beta, since route information and access details do change, plus plenty of water, pads if you're bouldering, and layers for canyon temperatures. Logan is 20 minutes away for supplies. For grand limestone in a beautiful, uncrowded canyon with 400-plus routes and world-class cave bouldering, Logan Canyon is one of Utah's genuine climbing treasures.